Beautiful Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik is a port in south-western Croatia, across the Adriatic Sea from Italy’s eastern coast. Endowed with a spectacular setting, it has become a magnet for tourists who come here to enjoy sailing and water sports in the deep blue Adriatic Sea, hiking in the spectacular mountains, and exploring the remarkable old town - still surrounded by a wall - which dates back to the 10th century.
Night has fallen when we arrive at Dubrovnik; I have to wait until the next day to enjoy its vistas. Looking out the window in the morning, I see a deep blue ocean to the west, dotted with small islands. To the east, the mountains climb steeply, red and orange tiles of homes shining from the slopes.
I decide to walk the two kilometres to Pile Gate, one of the two entrances to the old town. It is a hot day (34 degrees) but the heat is dry, not moist, and thus tolerable. The road, with pedestrian-friendly sidewalks, takes me through several residential neighbourhoods. Almost every home has a garden and flowers are blooming profusely in the summer heat. Parts of the road overlook the ocean, where swimmers, snorkelers and sailors are all out enjoying summer in this land of cold winters.
Inside Pile Gate, a large poster shows the points inside the old city that received shelling and shrapnels during the Bosnian War of 1991-92. After the fall of Tito – who held together seven nations under the flag of united Yugoslavia – political disagreements led to war, with Bosnia and Croatia on one side and Serbia and Montenegro on the other. (Later, our guide made the point that it was a political rather than a religious war – despite the casualties suffered by Bosnian Muslims.)
The walls that enclose the old town are a major tourist attraction. The pedestrian-only streets are paved with granite which is smooth and shiny after hundreds of years of use. The main street is level, but side lanes climb steeply and tourists end up negotiating long flights of stairs. Old town has historical churches, monasteries, palaces, museums, restaurants and the inevitable souvenir shops. For centuries, Dubrovnik was a republic - a sea-faring nation that rivalled Venice as a trading port. Later, it paid taxes to Turkey for protection from Venice. The town is so well preserved that it is designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. It was also the setting for the popular Game of Thrones TV show.
We go on an all-day cruise exploring the Elaphiti Islands archipelago. The ocean looks stunning with the mountain backdrop. During a stop, my son and I explore an island on foot, occasionally running into farmers selling olive oil and dried fruits by the roadside. It is like Mediterrenean islands I have seen in movies: hot, dry, and beautiful in a stern way.
There are gulls in the ocean, but I can hardly find any other birds or wildlife in either land or sea. One day, while walking through town, I see turtle doves. Presumably the season, time of day, and heavy tourist traffic has discouraged the birds. The old town hosts numerous rock pigeons in small openings in its wall. I am told that their number is regulated by feeding them food laced with contraceptives as needed.
After two days in beautiful Dubrovnik it is time to leave. Its beauty has convinced me why it is so popular and helps Croatia attract fifteen million tourists a year.
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