Cock-of-the-rock

Guaianan cock-of-the-rock. Photo: Ihtisham Kabir

"We have a little problem,” said Gabriel, my birding guide. This side-trip from my base in Manaus, Brazil was turning out more exciting than I had planned. The lodge had lost electricity when we arrived on this hot day. But Gabriel was not talking about electricity. Having gone off to scout the forest where the strange-looking birds could be found, he had returned with sombre news. To get there we had to cross a small river, a tributary of the Negro, with dark tea-coloured water. It had rained so much the day before that the river had overflowed and its wooden walking bridge was a foot underwater.

I looked at the flowing water and shook my head. It was my camera I was worried about; if I lost my footing while crossing that bridge, I could swim to safety, but my expensive gear would be finished. However, I had not come all this way to return empty-handed, so wrapping my camera in several layers of plastic I stuffed it inside Gabriel's backpack. He was certainly more surefooted than I, so he would carry it.

After all that preparation, crossing the bridge was easy. The water felt cool on my bare feet. I wobbled and froze a few times but never lost my balance.

On the other side, we hiked several hundred feet of narrow, undulating trails. A majestic rainforest grew around as we made our way through clearings filled with short trees with sparse leaves. Just as we reached our target spot where the birds sometimes congregated, the heavens opened up. We waited under umbrellas, trying not to get too drenched, camera still packed.

When the rains stopped I unpacked my camera and we stood still and silent. Any movement or noise could frighten away the birds. Within a few minutes we saw one on a low branch in the distance. It was coloured an outrageous orange and in the drab, grey forest, it stood out like a burning flame. Soon, other birds joined; they flew around in the clearing and came closer at one point. I was finally able to photograph the Guianan Cock-of-the-rock.

The Cock-of-the-rock is the most unusual bird I have seen. There are two species of this bird in the genus Rupicola, the Guianan and the Andean Cock-of-the-rock. Both are seen only in South America. Males are spectacular but females are drab. They spend their time up in the forest canopy and are difficult to see. However, this area is one of the few known places where they are within easy reach, close to the ground.

While we were there several other photographers showed up. As we made our photographs, there was a shared sense of awe at this wonder. Meanwhile, more birds joined, scattering around the trees. Then, as suddenly as it had arrived, the flock flew back up to the canopy.

Exhausted, drenched, but happy, we hiked back, crossed the river with more confidence and returned to the lodge. The electricity had returned by now. I photographed many other birds on that day I spent at Mari Mari Lodge, but the Cock-of-the-rock was undoubtedly the most spectacular.

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