(Top Left)A view of the Shiv Temple from across the adjacent dighi, (Top right)The skyline of Puthia; the Dol Temple has been recently whitewashed, (From Bottom Left) Arches in the Shiv Temple, Terracotta details, The Govinda Temple and The octagonal temple. Photo: Flickr.com

When I first saw the shikhar of the Shiv Temple in Puthia, I was embarrassed. Embarrassed for a number of reasons -- mostly because I had no idea something of this stature exists in Bangladesh. Should I blame myself single-handedly? I could but then again, growing up most of us didn't read about it. Our textbooks mentioned the few obvious "archaeological treasures" like Sonargaon, Paharpur, Mahastangar or Mainamati. Perhaps there was a vague reference or some miniscule, fuzzy sketch of the Puthia Rajbari.
Interestingly enough, the colossal Rajbari -- which now houses a college -- is not the most impressive existing structure (archaeologically or architecturally) in the locale.
Finding Puthia was another story. Apart from the above mentioned familiar sites, our Department of Archaeology does not believe in accommodating tourists. Can't really blame them though; necessary funds have not been allocated -- that's the usual complaint. Perhaps, that fact that tourism is one of the most lucrative industries in the world now, hasn't registered yet.
Puthia is about 23 kms east of Rajshahi. Since there is no sign, you have to ask around for directions.
The view of the Shiv Temple is spectacular enough to overwhelm the fatigued traveller. Next to it is a single-domed octagonal temple, which according to Bishwanath (a caretaker appointed by the Department of Archaeology), was used by the zamindars.
Legends narrate a simpler time when a Sattwik Brahman named Vatsacharya set up an ashram in the area. Supposedly, a Mughal general with his army came here to collect taxes. In those days, soldiers were called "lashkar". According to another story, Nilambar received the title of "Raja" from Mughal Emperor Jahangir. Locals believe the region was once called "Lashkarpur Pargana" (a reference to the Mughal connection).
A partition of the estate took place in 1744 when the eldest son received a five-and-half anna share while three others received three-and-half anna each. The Puthia Raj estate maintained its existence till the abolition of the zamindari system under the East Pakistan Estate Acquisition Act of 1950.
According the Bishwanath, there was a subtle "friendly" rivalry among the zamindar families who tried to outdo each other by commissioning the spectacular temples and palaces.
The temples were named after the particular worshipped deities -- Shiv Temple, Govinda Temple, Radha-Govinda Temple, Dol Temple and Anhik Temple for instance.
According to the locals, the archaeological splendour of Puthia is unrivalled in the country. Not really an overstatement, considering the nine existing temples; four have turned into rubble and no trace of two whatsoever.
The Shiv Temple was commissioned by Rani Bhubanmayi Devi in 1823 (according to the brochure provided by the temple). The temple, on a high platform, is of the panchagruha type -- not typically Bengali in style. The design of the ground floor is Islamic. Walls of the garbhagriha or the "sanctum sanctorum" features stone reliefs, which were defaced by the Pakistani soldiers during the Liberation War. Huge slabs of stone are missing from the floor. The intricate carvings that remain are awe-inspiring.
The Dol Temple (built in 1895), just minutes away from the Shiv Temple, is a square structure with a pyramidal appearance. It is open on all four sides and resembles the Rasa Mancha of Bishnupur, India. The temple has been whitewashed recently and the ground floor is currently an untidy storage unit with piled up sacks. The view from the top floor can help visualise why the temple is located in the middle of the town; it was perhaps used to display statues of gods and goddesses during festivals.
The Rajbari is in a sorry shape. Rani Hemantakumari Devi had the Rajbari built in 1895, in honour of her mother-in-law Saratsundari Devi. Using the Rajbari as a college has put the derelict edifice in further jeopardy -- signs of blatant indiscretion everywhere.
The Govinda Temple (built sometime between 1823 and 1895) -- within the Rajbari courtyard -- features elaborate terracotta work on the façade. It resembles the Kantaji Temple (Dinajpur). A unique feature is the central tower with four smaller towers in the corners, called the "char chala". An earthquake wiped out two other adjacent temples long ago. The terracotta walls depict mythical stories, Radha-Krishna images and epic battle scenes.
Walking around, we came across some octagonal rooms -- weeds shooting from the walls; went through a grand portico of a villa that is now a safe haven for a family of hooded cobras.
Sides of the Anhik Temples have been painted -- I earnestly hoped not on terracotta motifs.
A trip to this city of temples left me lost. I was lost trying to find it; at a loss trying to figure out why this place that has all the potential to become a tourist hotspot is still left underexposed and can't comprehend why this archaeological treasure trove is left uncared for.