Why Bijoy Sarani feels like Dhaka’s true heartbeat

Dhaka doesn't have a city square per se, but places like Shahbagh and areas around Motijheel serve as a sort of one.

But in my opinion, the vibrant, colourful pavement adjacent to our Parliament building and the Bijoy Sarani thoroughfare can be a contender in the race to nominate a town square – one designated open space for the public to come and unwind.

The atmosphere of this prominent pedestrian area in Dhaka is electrifying, if I am to describe it simply.

I was crossing the area last Tuesday, which was a weekday, mind you, and the place was pulsating with activity; I had to stop and soak in the happy energy. Weekends must be extra fun.

I am not sure if I can find the correct words to describe the flurry of happenings on that joyful pavement. It was after office hours, and the sun hung low in the sky, emitting a golden orange hue of light.

The summer breeze soothed the day's tiredness. For me, it was a picture-

perfect Dhaka moment — exactly how I want to see my beloved metro.

Groups of young office executives, university students, and friends were engaged in fun banter and serious office discussions, pulling each other's legs, and raucous laughter — just the way young people ought to be: carefree and joyful.

Photo: Palash Khan

Their jubilant mood seeped into me and other elderly couples lazing in the sun.

Young ones in love, mothers and children, and loners seeking me-time – it was a motley crowd.

"I left Dhaka when I was 24. I was a tailor in Saudi Arabia for almost three decades. I have recently returned, and I am enjoying the mood here. When I left, the area around Sangsad Bhaban was barren, but look at it now," says Yasin, chewing on a sweet betel leaf he bought from Asma, who was selling cigarettes and paan on that pavement.

Asma's makeshift shop was just a cigarette-selling tray, set on top of a wooden stool. She sat on the concrete under a big Bakul tree (Indian Medlar). Her no-nonsense attitude and well-brewed milk tea pull customers to her pop-up stand.

"I have been doing business here for the last eight years. I started the business with my own money, and I earn a decent living. Who is there to stop me from working just because I am a woman in a man's world?" she answered me when I asked if the men around her accept her presence.

There were quite a few young women selling cupcakes, alongside agar-agar jello with coconut shavings, which seemed to be a new kind of street food.

Sitting with a child in her lap, Amena, a young girl, was selling these baked desserts.

A young lad with developmental disability was selling ice-chilled fizzy drinks, water, and a traditional yoghurt drink called mattha.

Then there was the crowd-pleaser ghoti gorom chanachur, which in exact translated words would mean a street snack of fried and crispy chickpeas, lentils, peanuts, and rice flakes — that are kept hot under a ghoti or pot, which in turn is kept warm with slow-burning wood dust.

It is a local treat along with Dhakaiya masala muri with ghunni chaat (puffed rice and chickpeas) and Jhal Muri.

The thing that I really appreciated was that the walkway is jammed with young and old independent retailers, hawking their unique items, handcrafted goods, clothing, and food.

It is an interesting place to relax and feel upbeat because the ambience there is very chilled.

What caught my attention was a teenager with a Boxing Arcade Machine. For just Tk 20, you can test your punching power. He is surrounded by a crowd of young men keen to impress.

I must confess, I tried my hand and failed miserably, drawing sympathy from the gathering.

Part-timers and freelancers find this public area friendly for brisk business. Ordinary people find it a lively and happening place to loosen up and take a break at the day's end.

Next time you are in that vicinity, take the time out to explore the exuberance there.