Ratargul

Ratargul. Photo: Ihtisham Kabir

Ratargul is a forest in Gowainghat upazila near Sylhet town. It is special because it is a freshwater swamp forest whose trees are inundated by water, particularly during the monsoon.
To get there from Sylhet, I started out towards the airport and turned right towards Salutikar Bazar. About twenty kilometres from Ambarkhana point, I reached a junction called Motorghat Bazaar. Here I took a steep right turn into a narrow but paved toad. Travelling another eight or ten kilometres I reached the village of Eorattee.
Looking north from Eorattee, beyond the green fields and the wide river, I could see the blue Khasi Hills in India, clouds parked at the top. The villagers here grow rice and various vegetables; they also raise ducks which bring a decent livelihood. Fishermen, a group distinct from the villagers, ply the various waterways in their small rowboats.
The road through Eorattee – about a kilometre – took me to the river ghat. This road is unpaved and it is best to walk. Green rice fields on both sides are dotted with farmer's houses. I passed a temple and a mazar sitting next to each other.
Reaching the river, I embarked an engine boat – arranged ahead of time - to take me into the forest.
After travelling on the wide river for a few minutes, the boat took a right turn into a smaller channel. Approaching the forest I noticed the water body is dotted with solitary trees.
The trees in Ratargul are mostly koros, jarul, borun and hijol, submerged in water that may be up to twenty feet deep during monsoon. There are also smaller plants, particularly in shallow water and along the banks; vines and creepers cover most of them.
In dense areas of the forest, the boat must navigate its way through tree trunks.  The tree canopy covered me in these places. The twisted branches jutting from the water and reaching skyward create a surreal vista. Emerging from underneath the canopy, I travelled on open water dotted by individual trees until the next group of trees.
The water was muddy and turgid, though I was told it swells more during flood years. From high up, I heard several birds calling, including the sweet whistle of a black-hooded oriole, but could not see them. Birds love showing off during spring when looking for a mate; during the rainy season they remain hidden.
At about 500 acres, this forest is much smaller than Sundarban, but has its own charm. The water is highest during the rains and recedes during winter and spring. The best time to visit is June-September when the water levels are high and boats can easily maneuver in the water.
Returning from Eorattee, I continued on the Gowainghat road and explore pretty spots along the way. However one needs to be careful of the stone-carrying trucks which travel on these roads. Numerous stone-related businesses were also evident, including several crushing facilities.
Ratargul, administered by the Forest Department, has recently attained popularity as a tourist destination. It is an unusual and beautiful place to visit.

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