A rickshaw ride through the alleys of old town

After midnight, rickshaw rides in Old Dhaka are an experience. If you have not tried one yet, then you should, especially during the Eid break. A summer breeze flowing through your hair, only a handful of cars plying the roads that are silent with no honking of horns, a street dog accompanying you until the turn of the road — these are a pleasant change of scenery from what we are accustomed to seeing during the day.

I hired a rickshaw from Chankharpool and asked him to take me to my favourite spots scattered in the narrow lanes and by-lanes of that part of the town. The puller asked for Tk 300 per hour, and we happily zoomed towards my favourite egg-paratha roll place, a shanty in Chankharpool opposite the students' hall.  Crisp and oil-free, the paratha rolled in a fluffy hot omelette is the best midnight snack you can ever try.

My next destination was Nazirabazar. I was craving Dhaka's best lemonade from Beauty Lassi, and guzzled down two glasses of chilled, lime juice in a sugar syrup with crushed ice. After my thirsty body and soul were soothed, I was riding towards my favourite Nazimuddin Road. I must add that Pannu Khan Tea Stall at Nazirabazar offers the finest milk tea, and Tayabat Hotel and Restaurant is known for its kala bhuna and paratha. Besides, Bismillah Kabab Ghar has chicken chaap almost like a schnitzel and very much an in-demand dinner. And then there is Hajir Biriyani.

A particular narrow lane, Kazi Alauddin Road to Nazira Bazar Chowrasta, is a foodie's haven and can be like our own Khao San Road. A stark contrast to the popular tourist destination of Bangkok, the lane is littered with garbage, and hardly any of the store owners pay heed to aesthetics, while the city corporation has no desire to clean the garbage either. For what could have been a great walk, hopping from one food stall to the other, it is a nasty lane.

Anyway, heading towards Nazimuddin Road, I stopped at the turn of a mazar, beside the old jail walls, and ordered a takeaway of soft succulent beef kabab. If you are here, you should not miss Nasu Faruker Bakarkhani, which comes in multiple variants, from sugary treats to ones with different flavours of cheese.

After some retail therapy, I turned towards Hotel Star in Thataribazar, Nawabpur. A cup of their frothy milk tea is divine. Another amazing midnight snack is dunking their crisp ruti in this cup of hot tea.

Dhaka at night is a romantic city, a city I love so much. You should plan a rickshaw ride to see Dhaka during these late hours this coming holiday season.  For a foodie, this midnight trip to old Dhaka on a rickshaw is indeed a pleasure on a totally different level.