The land of the free?

The officer glanced at my passport, stamped it and returned it with a smile. As I walked out into the Mediterranean sun, I could hardly believe that immigration and customs formalities in Rome's DaVinci airport were completed in less than half an hour. Most importantly, I had not felt the anxiety and tension that have become part of my travel pains each time I re-enter Washington, Dulles, from an overseas trip. There were no intrusive questions about the purpose of my trip or what countries I had recently visited! Here I was in one of the most romantic and historical cities of the world and I had started off on the right foot. I felt Rome stretching its friendly arms, saying: "The Eternal City invites you to enjoy and relax!"
In fact, there is something about Southern Europe that prompts you to slow down. From the effusive coffee drinkers in the cafes to the strolling pedestrians in the busy avenues, no one is in a rush. You are not pushed and shoved because everyone seems to be enjoying the leisurely moment rather than dashing to the next appointment! Waiters in restaurants don't hover around, pressurising you to vacate the table for the next customer. My experiences as a resident in East Europe and frequent interactions with Europeans have confirmed that they attach a high premium to leisure. They seem to be content with small cars or the public transport and relatively small living spaces but yearn for more free time.
Coming from the United States, where the pace of life in large urban towns is hectic, to say the least, the freedom to enjoy the little pleasures of life was for me somewhat novel, actually refreshing. The smooth train journey to Venice (with no jarring cell phone conversations), the picturesque drive to Positano on the Amalfi coast, the leisurely walks along quaint streets lined with aesthetically decorated shops reminded me that life is not only about running after ambitious, time-bound projects but enjoying the simple things that happen just by chance!
Of course, I must pay a special tribute to our hosts Iqbal and Neeman Sobhan for sharing with my husband and me the uninhibited spirit of Rome which they have imbibed. Mornings and afternoons were spent in sight seeing or relaxed, intimate conversations. In the evenings our hosts took us on exploratory journeys for tasting exquisite Italian cuisine, which can only be described in Elizabeth Gilbert's (Eat, Pray and Love) words: "If they don't serve this kind of thing in heaven, then I really don't want to go there!"
Like all good things, the Roman Holiday ended! On board the United flight back to Washington, I started experiencing the anxiety which I always feel before arriving at a US airport. Even though I have never had a bad experience (like being taken to the secondary inspection line) the very prospect that it might happen creates unwarranted tension! The anticipatory hassle and sometimes long interrogations by customs and immigrations in this country have been a real turn-off for many intending travelers. My friends from Bangladesh take holidays in Europe and the Far East each year but they now rarely visit America. One of them told me bluntly: "The US visa process takes 6-9 months, but that is not a guarantee for a smooth passage through the immigration. Sometimes officers pose the same questions that you were asked at the Embassy visa desk. Besides, there is a high likelihood that a traveler's luggage is put through special examination, which means a long wait and a disheveled suitcase! I really can't take this harassment."
Initially, I was a bit upset at her criticism. But now that I have returned from my Italian sojourn, there was this lurking feeling that she might have a point. Post September 11, the United States has changed dramatically from a welcoming and friendly country to one virtually gripped by fear and suspicion, bordering paranoia. It's no longer what it used to be even a decade ago -- welcoming to different ethnicities, religions and opinions! Americans have become increasingly suspicious of other nations and cultures, which is surprising given that it's a country of immigrants! Unfortunately, this hostility is fanned by some politicians and the media constantly droning about the "foreign" threat to national security!
Europe has not been immune to security threats and terrorist plots but it has dealt with the situation with equanimity and maturity. As a result, there is no pervading sense of panic and people are more relaxed. Perhaps we, Americans, need to ask ourselves: Are we safer as a result of the increased surveillance? Is it worth giving up our liberties for security, especially because security alone, without freedom and liberty, does not constitute a free and democratic nation?
The writer is renowned Rabindra Sangeet exponent and a former employee of the World Bank.