For real change, listen to RMG suppliers

We've spent so many years going round in circles on various issues impacting garment supply chains. We are still no closer to ensuring fairer purchasing practices now than we were a decade ago; it's the same case with other supply chain issues, too. This week, I read an article that suggested that the organic cotton supply chain in India was under scrutiny. This will have an impact on Bangladeshi garment manufacturers, many of which use organic cotton. I could name so many other issues in supply chains that are not being resolved; sadly, it doesn't seem like they will be resolved in the near future.

There is a common denominator in all of them: nobody is listening to the suppliers. If they are, they are not listening hard enough.

To me, this is like a detective attempting to solve a crime without considering their most important evidence. Take the issue of organic cotton integrity. I know through supply chain contacts that this is a major challenge in India. I also know why it's a challenge and why root and branch reform will be required to bring trust and confidence back to that sector. I only know all this because I talk to suppliers, and that stands to reason: Who else would be better to have true insight on these issues than the actors themselves?

This year, our industry will—thankfully—be returning to live events and conferences. It is interesting to note that many of the key events relating to supply chains take place in Europe or the US. This in itself seems strange. Fashion's environmental and social challenges reside in supply chains. We all know that. But when the major fashion retailers gather to discuss these issues, they remain close to home. They largely discuss these issues among themselves.

The speaker line-ups for these events will likely be overwhelmingly dominated by the same old faces, fashion brands and retailers, various NGOs and industry consultants. Can these people bring any insight on these issues? Yes, of course. But to get the full picture, we need to hear the voices from the supply chains. Surely, a weighting of 50 percent supply chain voices for each event would be the best way to ensure that we find out what's going on and how the issues can be resolved.

Instead, we risk an event scene where the same issues are raised time and again—the same, ineffective solutions are put forward and no progress is made.

I was invited to speak at a major European event several years ago. My speech was well-received; however, I was not invited back to the event later, and I assume that's because I had probably ruffled too many feathers in the fashion industry.

This issue relates, of course, to the topic of transparency. There is much talk of transparency in fashion circles. But how can you have true transparency when some voices are being ignored or side-lined? True transparency means having difficult, awkward conversations. And it means having these conversations in public, where they can be heard by all stakeholders. At present, fashion is making too many claims about transparency, which simply don't stand up to scrutiny. One example is publicly listing their suppliers. Is this a welcome move? Yes, of course. But please, let's not try to claim that it's for transparency. Real transparency would mean enabling the world to hear what these suppliers have to say in an open forum.

Think about some of the world's most successful companies: Apple, Nike or Microsoft, for example. One of the aspects which drives companies like these is that they are constantly challenging themselves internally. Structures are in place to ensure that all voices are heard—good or bad. If there are problems, they are not swept under the carpet (which, sadly, is what we do far too frequently in our industry). To get to this stage, these companies create a climate where people are comfortable raising their voices—from senior management to the lowest ranking officials. No stone is left unturned as they strive for perfection, and the end result is a constant process of innovation and improvement. And, of course, market success.

Now think about our industry. Are problems and issues thrashed out in public? Are all voices given an ear? Is there a willingness to openly discuss difficult subjects? Are people comfortable raising their grievances?

Sadly, I think the answer to all these questions is a resounding no. This is a systemic failure of our industry to take on board the sentiments of some of its most important players.

Until this changes, until we get true transparency and listen to the voices of suppliers, we will not get the radical change our industry requires.

Mostafiz Uddin is the managing director of Denim Expert Limited. He is also the founder and CEO of Bangladesh Denim Expo and Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE).