A mouthful of Chittagong

I miss the city where I grew up.. Chittagong, with its numerous hillocks and fields and beaches is a sharp contrast to the overcrowded, hectic and chaotic Dhaka. It had given me an amazing childhood. 

I loved my neighbourhood. From my bed, all I had to do was draw open the curtains to view a beautiful hill. In the early mornings, I would venture in short treks through it. And after Asr prayers, I would go round and round my neighbourhood with my bicycle. Everyone knew me; I knew everyone.

Another treat the neighbourhood had always given to its people is the highly celebrated Chittagongian social affair known as 'mezbaan'. The feast was called upon in several occasions, be it death anniversary or just for a social get-together. Invitations were sometimes made by announcing it through the loudspeaker to the entire neighbourhood. 

The menu's flagship item is the 'mezbaani gosh', to be eaten with plain rice. This beef curry, needless to say, is a signature dish of Chittagong. What's so special about a beef curry, you ask? You have to taste it to understand it. A mouthful of the distinctive 'mezbaani gosh', made possible through an elaborate preparation (executed on a massive scale; slaughtering as many as ten cows for one event is not rare) summarises what Chittagong has been for me.   

So when I set forth to try out Mezbaan Bari – a Chittagonian restaurant in Dhaka – I had my fingers crossed. Expectations, as you can understand, ran high. 

Half of the place is under the open sky whilst the other half is housed under a tin shade. The décor is very unpretentious, casual and minimalistic. And there is no air-conditioning. "Mezbaan is held outdoors, often on the front or backyard of the host's house or on an empty plot," Mustafa Azaad, one of the owners of Mezbaan Bari, explained. "We designed our restaurant keeping that in mind." 

Azaad is one of the four owners. The four friends, all having deep ties to Chittagong in their personal and family lives, have opened the eatery not only to cater to the growing Chittagonian demographic in Dhaka and to create a great place for hanging out, but also to present the Chittagonian delicacies in the capital.

Waiters provide a welcome drink to the guests. For the restaurant, it is Roohafza with its distinctive own twist. And of course, there are many other drinks you could order while having the meal. They have the rich and delicious 'badamer  shorbot', which is a rarity outside Old Dhaka.  

The much-cherished beef curry and rice arrives at the table on clay dishes. "In villages, traditionally the food was served in clay dishes in Mezbaan," Azaad informed.

As I put a mouthful of hot rice and the extravagant beef curry, I was immediately taken back to Chittagong. The texture, flavour, spices - they all came back to me. "The chef and the ingredients are all from Chittagong," Azaad said. "Making 'mezbaani gosh' is the monopoly of Chittagonian chefs. The recipe calls for a mix of numerous spices and an experienced chef to cook it. Therefore, standing true to our name, we have them all from Chittagong."

So much so, Mezbaan Bari's kitchen boasts huge 'deghs' and fire-woods, hence following the same practices of mezbaan.

You can also savour some other Chittagonian dishes at the eatery. Akhni, which looks like khichuri but is an entirely different item, is a special rice-and-beef dish. 'Chanar daal' is a must try-out, along with their paratha. If you love nehari, you would surely love 'nola kanzi'. Meanwhile, if your heart calls out for chicken, order 'duroos', a full chicken roast. 

The eatery has a few desserts. Complete the hearty meal with 'jorda'. Warm, not too sweet and cooked to perfection, Mezbaan Bari is a rare place where you can get jorda any time of year. 

Whether you are from Chittagong and seek a nostalgic culinary experience or simply want to relish in a regional variety of Bangladeshi cuisine, Mezbaan Bari is for you. 

Prices are very reasonable. Students can avail a special offer: akhni biriyani plus soft drink at Tk150. You can also enjoy a certain discount if you use Robi, Airtel, Citycell or Grameenphone.   Location: 445-6, Apollo Link Road, Vatara, Bashundhara. Contact number: 01616392226.Find 'Mezbaan Bari' on Facebook. Home delivery options: HungryNaki; Foodpanda; Food Mart; Mezbaan Bari provides free delivery within Bashundhara.

By M H Haider
Photo courtesy: Mezbaan Bari