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A sari for the star in you
The sari holds a place of pride in every Bengali belle's wardrobe. The garment may be ages old, but its appeal is timeless and dare I say, eternal. Draping it is an art in itself. Across the length and breadth of Bangladesh and India majority of women from all walks of life choose the sari as their outfit of choice, and there are as many ways of draping it as there are facets to women's personalities!
A sari is as versatile as its wearer; it can be whatever one wants it to be. Think of any occasion, and there is a different style of draping appropriate for it.
In India every region boasts its own style of sari draping, unique to their climate, culture and circumstances. In a land that is so diverse and multicultural, the sari has been given a different outlook in every region, making it not only dynamic but versatile.
While most of these regional styles are rather complicated and incongruent to modern fashion, some traditional styles are rather interesting. And draping it in different styles only enhances its appeal. Along with draping there are different methods of pleating that makes each style one of a kind.
THE NIVI DRAPE
To begin with, the Nivi drape is the most common, modern form of wearing a sari. The anchal is placed on the right shoulder, either arranged neatly in pleats or left open. It is a timeless style that always looks elegant. The Butterfly drape is a variation of the Nivi, whereby the 'anchal' is arranged in thin pleats and pinned tightly at the shoulder. The base of the 'anchal' will be narrow, allowing a glimpse of the midriff. This style has been made popular by Bollywood actresses, and is perfect for young women opting for flowing materials such as chiffon, georgette, net and lace. It can be worn for any occasion that demands the glamour quotient to be up there!
Pair it with a sensual, backless blouse or a sleeveless one to add oodles of oomph.
'EK PECH'
The next one is the Ek Pech, a style as quintessential to Bengal as roshogolla! There is no pleating involved; the 'anchal' is wrapped twice, thrown over left shoulder and a key ring is used to keep it in place. A very traditional style, it is perfect for occasions like holud, aiburo bhaat and 'shaad'.
Very regal and gracious, wear this style with a Maggi sleeve or a three-quarter sleeve blouse with ruffles to channel your inner old-world Bengali diva!
RAJRANI
The Rajrani draping style hails from Gujarat. The anchal is brought to the front instead of throwing over the shoulder, and the right corner is pinned at the shoulder, giving the sari a formal and regal aura. This is a style made famous by the noblewomen of Gujarat for whom it was the drape of choice.
Perfect for weddings, receptions and other formal occasions, this style looks best if the sari is heavily embroidered. The Seedha Pallu style is a variation of this drape. The anchal is brought forward again instead of being thrown over the shoulder, and both ends are pinned at both sides of the waist.
MEKHALA
An elegant style, the Mekhala sari draping style consists of two parts. The bottom part is wrapped around the waist like a sarong with pleats while the upper part is thrown over the shoulder like a shawl. An Assamese style, it looks very regal when worn with the earthy, handloom saris unique to the region.
MOHINIATTAM
South Indian silk is coveted and treasured by women all over South Asia and beyond. This drape requires the wearer to choose a silk sari so as to retain its complicated shape. It begins like the Nivi drape, but the pleats are wrapped around the waist like a fan and secured tightly. Then the innermost layer is rolled outside. A drape favoured by dancers, this is a very traditional style.
NAUVARI
A drape unique to Maharashtra, this style does not require the use of a petticoat. The lower part is draped around the legs like pants, and the anchal is tightly wrapped around the shoulder. There is no pleating involved either. It is a very common style mostly sported by the hardworking, busy women in Mumbai.
KANDYAN
The Sri Lankan style of sari draping is traditional, yet feels modern. This style involves two pieces of sari. The pleats are not done at the centre but at the shoulder, and the anchal is tightly secured because of the pleats. The bottom part is free flowing and easy.
Each draping style is unique. Hidden inside the folds are a wealth of heritage and whispers of history. There is a story, an anecdote, a poem and maybe a song that is tells to the world and envelopes its wearer in age-old feminine mystique and beauty. The sari is only half the story; it's the wearer who completes it!
Photo: LS Archive/Sazzad Ibne Sayed