The crown jewel of iftar

When I sit for iftar after a long day of fasting, I imagine the table is a treasure trove. There is the gold, silver, and precious stones: the fruits, piyaju-beguni-alu chop, and chickpea dishes. The shine of the glazed jilapi attempts to blind me, but I look beyond. At the end of the table I find what I have been looking for.

Covered with a plastic sheet, paper and tied with decorative string, a clay pot that is the star of the entire iftar, the crown jewel: haleem.

Haleem is enjoyed particularly during the month of Ramadan. Restaurants and hotels around Dhaka bring out their biggest cooking pots to prepare Haleem. Sale of this hot, meaty delicacy begins in the afternoon. Truth be told, it is difficult to not find haleem in any locality, be it in the narrow Old Dhaka lanes or around the nicely landscaped Gulshan Avenue.

The earliest record of haleem dates back to 10th century. Originally an Arabic dish called “harees”, it found its way across Persia and into the Indian subcontinent. As years went by, the haleem slow cooked itself into the essential Muslim cuisine.

“During iftar, the pot of haleem is the centre of attraction. I remember days when my father returned home from work carrying a pot of haleem, and our family knew that iftar would be special,” recalls Samia Noor, senior teacher at an English medium school.

While the recipe varies from region to region, haleem in Bangladesh is predominantly cooked for long hours with a variety of ingredients such as pulses and lentils mixed with oil, ghee, and a long list of spices. The highlight, however, is the meat added to it. A bowl of haleem is enjoyed with a cheek of lime, thinly-sliced ginger and garnished with coriander and beresta (crispy, fried onion). Beef and mutton monopolise this dish, while word of chicken haleem are heard of but not paid attention to.

Growing up in the ‘90s, I had only learned of two “brands” of haleem: the classic “shahi Haleem”, and the widely popular “Mama Haleem”. While the first was common everywhere, with colourful banners and loud vendors outside every restaurant cajoling prospective buyers, the latter was a special Dhakaite experience. The Mama Haleem hype is still alive, although its legacy is perhaps being erased by more and more “special” haleems popping up throughout the city.

Brac University student Asif Ayon says a lot of people often tend to overlook the nutritional value of haleem and dwell on the flavour and quantity of meat.

“Haleem is a slow-cooked stew of meat and pulses. I see many people complain that they didn’t receive enough meat in their bowls, but they don’t see that it’s already a protein-packed bowl of energy. It really is an entire meal in itself,” comments Asif.

While your local restaurant may cook up a good haleem, the best ones in the city really do stand out. As evident from a discussion in the Facebook group “The Food Talk”, the best haleem can be found at Tarka in Banani, Premium Sweets in Gulshan 2, Chili’s in Dhanmondi and a few other places. The clear winner, however, is Decent Pastry Shop on Satmasjid Road, Dhanmondi -- the most recommended haleem in town.