Manipuri weavers on road to recovery

Both the international and domestic demand for Manipuri cloth, a style of handwoven fabric native to Sylhet that come in block, stripe and flat colour print, has recovered in line with the receding coronavirus pandemic.

Local and foreign tourists alike began flocking to Sylhet after the government eased all restrictions on public movement amid the declining Covid-19 infection rate.

The travellers never forget to pick up a few Manipuri items during their travels, particularly before the winter season.

But as the Covid-19 pandemic forced economies across the globe into repeated lockdowns, the demand for such products was practically nonexistent for the past 19 months.

But with the coronavirus infection rate now seemingly under control following the rollout of mass vaccination programmes, Manipuri weavers and vendors in Sylhet are seeing a massive onrush of customers for winter products, such as blankets and warm clothing.

There are at least 30 Manipuri clothing and tailoring shops on either side of Lama Bazar in Sylhet city while the Srimangal and Kamalganj upazilas of Moulvibazar district house 100 shops collectively.

During a visit to the region last Friday, it was seen that almost all local shops were selling Manipuri products of similar quality, price and design.

Since the prices are kept relatively low, different classes of people buy these products.

Women make up a majority of the local industry's customer base with Manipuri saris priced anywhere between Tk 1,000 to Tk 10,000.

Meanwhile, towels are being sold for Tk 90 to Tk 500 while bedsheets are priced between Tk 800 to Tk 1,500 and blankets are Tk 320 to Tk 10,000.

"While completing my studies, I would make Manipuri clothes with my mother to earn a little extra for our family but sales were almost zero after Covid-19 forced everyone to stay home," said L Nandita Debi, a resident of Homerjan village in Kamalganj.

Like her, many other Manipuri traders faced hard times in that situation and had to sell their products at low prices.

"However, the situation has since improved as many weavers are selling directly to end consumers," Debi said, adding that e-commerce played a vital role in this regard.

However, the industry is not what it once was, according to local weavers such as Minti Sinha and Shiuly Rani Sinha in Kamalganj.

The price of yarn was low just three years ago, when a family could produce a four by four foot Manipuri cloth for Tk 100.

It now costs about Tk 500 to make the same piece of fabric.

Apart from increased raw material costs, poor access to finance, a lack of government patronage and timely training are the biggest challenges for marketing Manipuri products.

"With this backdrop, Covid-19 came as a double blow for local weavers," Sinha said, adding that they are still trying to recover previous losses for now.

Anamika Sinha, another Manipuri weaver of the same upazila, said many wholesalers from across the country are coming in droves to place orders which were held up by the pandemic.

But due to a yarn shortage, the weavers are unable to fully cater to the increased demand.

"Although there is a huge demand for Manipuri cloth from both home and abroad, there is a shortage of raw materials and government support," she added.

Sinha went on to say that if customers continue to respond positively, they will be able to quickly recover their previous losses.

Initially, the industry was able to survive on the raw materials available in Sylhet alone but as demand increased, weavers started buying the necessary materials from Dhaka, Narsingdi and Chattogram. Still though, the supply of raw materials continues to fall short.

"So, it is necessary to ensure the availability of raw materials in this industry on a priority basis," she said.

Rabi Singha Rajesh, member secretary of the Manipuri Cultural Academy, said the region is reputed for handloom weaving but now many have turned away from the profession due to a lack of adequate patronage and wages.

With proper patronage, it is possible to market a large quantity of Manipuri cloth abroad after meeting local demand, he added.

Shahnaz Akhter, a customer from Srimangal, said it was the first time since the Covid-19 outbreak that she had come to the Manipuri market.

"I will send Manipuri shawls to two of my non-Sylheti friends as a winter gift and I bought two Manipuri saris as well since prices are relatively good," she added.

Many shopkeepers of different Manipuri markets in Srimangal told this correspondent that the demand for different varieties of shawls and wool blankets is also high this year.

However, the prices of warm clothes are comparatively higher this year, they said.

So, some traders are taking the required materials to Manipuri weavers in advance to make such items at low prices.

As a result, the middlemen are benefitting more.

Apart from that, saris are now being produced mechanically, making it hard for handloom weavers to keep up with the competition.

Barkat Ullah, liaison officer of Bangladesh Handloom Board in Kamalganj, said only locals were interested in these fabrics not too long ago but now, tourists from all over are attracted towards Manipuri fabrics.

The price of yarn increased by Tk 50 to Tk 100 per kilogramme since last year.

"But if anyone complains through the association, we can talk to the higher authority and provide duty free yarn," he added.