Singapore soliloquy
Inspired by my friend 'Finelychopped,' I decided to go to the island country on a food jaunt.
Got in touch with the most excellent Sushobhan.
He immediately, in a most reassuring manner, invited me to stay over and took charge of organising my visa.
And I landed in Singapore for a day and half of food fiesta.
I had my list from 'Finelychopped.'
The first port of call was Ya Kun Kaya toast.
The runny soft-boiled eggs with toast and local coconut jam.
Alas, the outlet we went to was shut for renovation.
Not to be deterred, we walked across the street to Kopitiam and had the same thing.
In an unusually low-tech approach, whole eggs, shell and all are immersed in a largish mug of boiling water, covered and kept for around 5 minutes.
A slice of bread is split in half, tasted and smeared with coconut jam and butter.
The egg is cracked open in a deep dish and soy sauce is splashed on it.
One of the best ways to eat eggs in my mind.
Runny, salty, warm, gooey. You are supposed to slurp off the plate I am told.
My next call was at Maxwell Hawker Centre, one of many food courts in Singapore, made famous by the visits of Anthony Bourdain and Gordon Ramsay, among others.
Specifically, I was looking for a place called Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken, where the humble rice and chicken dish has taken an iconic status.
Joined the longish line, had my fan boy moment with a Bourdain poster and bought a plate of chicken rice.
I know not how simply steamed chicken can be so delicious. I don't know how rice cooked in stock can be so epiphany inducing. But they were. The chicken, succulent, mildly spicy, incredibly flavourful. The rice, toothsome, full of umami.
I did not need the dark soy and the chilli sauce that comes with it.
Walked across the street to Chinatown to pay my respect to another institution, the Tintin shop. One of only five in Asia. Came back with two mugs and a Snowy keychain.
For lunch, my friend took me to the Indonesian Warung where stuffed squid and nasi goreng jostled for space. That along with some curried fish got washed down with ginger beer.
The rest of the day was spent resting and catching up with some old friends.
Early next morning we headed out to a place called l'Etoile for some much touted eggs. Seems like that is so going to replace Ya Kun Kaya toast as Singapore's favourite breakfast. But all this happened after I devoured a bit of char siu with rice.
Having had that and a couple of espressos, we went walking and came face to face with this small bakery whose ethereal smell kind of enticed us inside. And there we were, face to face with a slice of flourless orange cake. Also known as a slice of heaven. I really do not have the words to describe awesomeness.
The last port of call before I headed out to the airport was lunch at True Blue, a Peranakan eatery that resides next to the Peranakan museum.
It was more poetry than food. Chicken cooked with black nut is an acquired taste and I loved it. The rich, chocolaty inside of the nut mixed with steamed rice was a carefully composed melody. We also had prawn with coconut and curry leaves. Familiar flavours, yet so sophisticated, so subtle. It is easy to go overboard with both coconut and curry leaves. I admired the restrain.
I came back a very happy man. For once, I travelled to eat. And eat I did.
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