A bittersweet concoction
How to extract the palm pulp
Peel the fruit, separate the seeds (there are usually three segments) and cut off the fibres with a pair of scissors. Just rub the fibre over the colander holes till the pulp passes through. Collect the pulp once all the fibre has been given this scrubbing. Pass it through a sieve. Collect the golden pulp, which is now ready for use.
Tal-er luchi
The ultimate dream and truth in a Bengali's life is 'luchi-torkari (poori-bhaji)' on a weekend breakfast. Although 'luchi' seems to be a very simple dish, it requires considerable cooking prowess; even years of practice and expertise can fail sometimes.
Traditionally 'luchi' is made using flour; adding palm is a personal twist. As the extract is sufficiently sweet, any addition of sugar can be avoided.
Ingredients
2 cup all-purpose flour
1½ cup palm pulp
2 tbsp ghee (for kneading)
Oil for deep frying
A pinch of salt
Method
In a big bowl, take flour, salt and 2 tablespoons of ghee. Mix ingredients well to form a grainy mixture. Pour the palm pulp and knead well. Add little water if needed. Knead again for 10 minutes. When you feel the dough is not sticking to your palm, it is ready.
Keep the dough for about thirty minutes covered by a wet cloth. Divide the dough into twenty small balls; roll into 4-5 inch diameter circles.
Heat oil in a deep wok till it is smoking hot. Reduce the flame and slide in the rolled out 'luchi.' Press the 'luchi', while frying with the back of a slotted spatula, this helps in making the 'luchi' fluffy. Take it out of the oil. Drain out the excess oil and serve.
Palm balls (tal-er-bora)
These balls are made from the fresh ripe and juicy palm fruit. The process of making 'tal-er-bora' is not as easy as it seems. At first we have to take out the pulp of each kernel, boil the pulp to reduce and thicken the pulp. Afterwards we have to add all the ingredients and slowly fry the palm balls. This is a time tested recipe straight from my mum's cookbook!
Ingredients
2 cup thick palm pulp
2 cup rice flour
½ cup semolina
2 cup sugar
1 cup grated coconut
Oil for fry
A pinch of salt
Method
In a bowl add all ingredients but one at a time. Mix well with the thick palm pulp. Make a smooth batter. Rest them for 15 minutes. Now heat enough oil in a deep frying pan. Add one tablespoon of the mixture and fry it. Continue the process. Remember: the oil should not be very hot.
Fry on low heat, so that they are cooked from inside and crispy from the outside. When the 'bora' will be golden in colour, remove from the oil and put on a paper towel. Serve hot or cold.
Steam palm cake
These cakes are made with rice flour, palm sugar, and coconut milk. Palm cakes have a sponge cake like consistency. They are soft, sweet and slightly bitter.
Ingredients
2 cup rice flour (fried)
1 cup ripe, palm pulp
3 cup sugar
3 cup scraped coconut (over-ripe)
2 tsp baking powder
2 eggs
1 cup milk cream
1 cup palm oil
A pinch of salt
Method
Fry the rice powder slightly, as you do before cooking semolina. Keep aside to cool. Beat the egg thoroughly and mix all the ingredients except rice powder. Mix well. Now slowly add the powder and mix. Make a thick and smooth batter. Grease a mould of about 8-inch diameter with ghee or oil. Pour the batter in a mould. Add water in a steamer for steam baking; place the mould and steam-bake for 1 hour. Keep the lid on so that the steam does not escape. Remove the mould and prepare to serve when cool.
Tip
You may use your rice-cooker or even pressure-cooker for steam-baking. Instead of steam- baking these can also be baked in oven. Sometimes rural women bake them in earthen pots.
Palm and coconut laddu
'Laddus' – the quintessential snack for every festival - are ball-shaped sweets popular in the Indian subcontinent and Bangladesh. Common ingredients used for laddu are chickpea flour, wheat semolina and ground coconut. These are combined with sugar and other flavourings, cooked in ghee and moulded into ball shapes. I made these with fresh coconut, palm, fried pressed rice and sugar. This easy and traditional preparation needs just three ingredients - coconut, sugar and palm pulp. Even rookies can make this with ease.
Ingredients
2 cup scraped fresh coconut
2 cup palm pulp
1½ cup dry roasted press rice powder
2 cup sugar, ½ cup condensed milk
½ cup mixed nut
2 tbsp palm oil
Method
Heat palm oil in a non-stick pan. Add scraped coconut, palm pulp and sugar, cook for 10 minutes. When the water dries up add 1 cup pressed rice powder and condensed milk to it. Mix well and cook until it turns sticky and you can make 'laddu' from the mixture. Now add mixed nuts and turn off heat. Mix continuously for 2-3 minutes. Transfer the prepared mixture in a bowl and set aside to cool. Divide the prepared mixture into equal portions shape them into 'laddus'. Coat the 'laddus' in remaining roasted, press-rice powder. Store or serve.
Tal-er kheer (palm kheer)
This is a traditional dessert made with ripened, fibrous, palm fruit. Addition of 'taal' extract adds a bitter flavour to it; a welcome change for our palate.
Ingredients
2 cup palm pulp
1 cup sugar
1 cup grated coconut
1 litre milk
Method
Heat milk in a heavy bottomed pan on low flame. Keep stirring continuously to prevent the milk from burning at the bottom. When the milk thickens add the palm pulp and sugar. Stir steadily and add coconut. Cook for one hour and stir continuously. Now the mixture should thicken and the distinct and flavourful smell of palm should be released. Pour the 'kheer' on a serving dish. Cool in a freezer and serve.
Palm shake
Ingredients
1 cup palm pulp
½ litre chilled, thick milk
¼ tsp cardamom powder
2 tbsp sugar
Method
Blend all the ingredients, until smooth, in a food processor. Pour into glasses. Add ice cubes and serve.
Health benefits and nutrition facts
Palm is a natural coolant for the body and an excellent source of vitamin A, vitamin B-complex and vitamin C. It has significant portions of minerals like zinc, potassium, iron, and calcium. Palm is also used in the treatment of nausea, worm infestations and is also thought to have expectorant, anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties. Its sap has long been used to treat gastric ulcers and liver problems.
Photo: Sazzad Ibne Sayed
Food prepared by Selina Parvin
Food Styling: RBR
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