Travel
Travels in Malawi
The
Warm Heart of Africa
Farah
Ghuznavi
After spending
some time exploring Lilongwe with my friends, we planned an
extended road trip for the second week in Malawi, encompassing
the mountains (the Zomba plateau), and of course, Lake Malawi
itself. Five minutes into the outskirts of Lilongwe, the setting
became quite rural. The road ran alongside the maize corn fields,
which were mostly harvested, the dry husks of the plants lying
undisturbed. At one point, two squatting women (one carrying
a baby in a sling on her back) sat harvesting the remaining
corn cobs. Just beyond the road lay rolling green plains, dotted
with dark green vegetation, mostly trees. In the distance, like
giant anthills, you could see conical, pudding-shaped hillocks.
We passed
signs of commerce by the roadside, vendors roasting sweet potato
and maize corn, or offering little piles of peanuts, sweet potatoes
and guava for sale - literally people "going about their
business". On one occasion, we saw an enterprising goat
sneakily eating the roasting sweet potatoes from the side of
the tray, unnoticed by the vendor! The number of coffin makers
though, provided a sobering reminder of another everyday aspect
of life in Africa the swathe cut through the population by the
HIV virus.
During the
trip, we had some interesting encounters with Malawian English.
One aspect of this was the charming way people pronounced their
"R"s (as "L"s), most evident in the frequent
response of "ollite" (all right). It was hard not
to imitate, despite our desire not to be obnoxious tourists!
And since the national beer is available primarily in green
and brown bottles, you would often hear waiters asking people
if they wanted "gleen" or "blown"...
I
also enjoyed reading some of the road signs for various businesses
e.g. Heaven bound coffin makers. Another favourite was the "Rightway
driving school" (the instructor we saw was, however, driving
on the wrong side of the road...). Meanwhile, I am still pondering
what the "Pfuko-Nazi" driving school teaches! At one
petrol stop, the sign on the toilet door read "Please keep
de toilet clean" (and it must be confessed that the toilets
were in general far cleaner than in our part of the world).
We passed tiny one-room shops with the grandiose titles of "tea
rooms". There was the "Friendly Grocery Store"
(which looked distinctly closed and unwelcoming) and the "Always
Jesus" grocery store. In Lilongwe itself, I had earlier
noted "The Jews - signmakers and construction specialists"
(interesting combination), and "Bratts, the children's
store" (proprietor Hardson Captun). And one of my favourites
remains "Kleenkrew, worriers against grime" (perhaps
they meant "warriors", or was it just a reflection
of the extent of their concern?)…
For most
of the drive, nature provided much to appreciate. We saw some
magnificent Baobab trees, even stopping to take a picture of
one. The birds provided a riot of colour against the cloudless
sky, with their blue, red, orange and yellow plumage. Most seemed
unafraid of people, settling wherever they pleased. To my displeasure
(as I found out in the breaks we took during the drive) even
the insects were colourful and BIG! However, just when you think
you're really out in the African bush you come across some reminder
of "civilisation" (on this trip, it was a church of
Jehovah's Witnesses and a huge billboard advertising…..you
guessed it, the ubiquitous "Fair and Lovely"! Is there
anywhere on the planet where you can actually get away from
them?!).
We stopped
briefly at Dedza, famous for its pottery workshops, taking the
time to browse some of the beautifully crafted products, as
well as indulge in the excellent coffee and pastries in the
small garden cafe. As we continued towards Zomba, the scenery
gradually shifted from rolling pastures dotted with rondavels
(small round huts with thatched conical roofs) and distant hills,
to thick vegetation by the side of the road, to high roads with
a view of the plains below. The proximity to the mountains with
their thick forests and some evergreen trees (the highest point
being 2000 ft.) became increasingly clear.
Everywhere
we went, we passed local markets, bustling with vitality. We
stopped at one to buy some ebony carved masks and wall decorations,
as well as a set of tiny wooden elephants. The bargaining was
fierce, but ended in good-natured farewells all around. Though
we were slightly disturbed to be mistaken for Americans - especially
when we heard the sellers' (unsolicited) views on the war in
Iraq - we managed to correct that impression quickly, and were
happy to affirm that we shared the local view that the situation
in Iraq was not a good one.
Along the
road, people were selling all manner of things, from buckets
of potatoes and coal, to basketry, to little piles of enormous
avocadoes and tasty, bright red tomatoes. There were also many
small roadside craft "shops", where people had laid
out their wares for passing drivers to consider. The area by
the lake specialises in basketwork. This was evidenced in the
wealth of baskets of different sizes and shapes for sale, as
well as the round carpets with the spiral designs, looking like
giant targets for archery practice. We could not resist the
ingeniously crafted Pajero-like jeeps, made out of local materials.
They came in three sizes, and had extra tyres on the back, engines
which could be opened for inspection, rearview mirrors and roof
racks where there were boxes to store things! This was one product
clearly influenced by local terrain (which really does require
four wheel drive vehicles outside urban areas), as well as the
preponderance of aid workers (MSF, Save the Children, GTZ) in
their four wheel drives…
We finally
reached the large town of Zomba, in the mountains, that night
and faced a rather long, and very confusing drive up a dirt
track on the mountain (it turned out the road had been badly
flooded in recent weeks) to the plush Meridien Ku Chawe hotel,
where we were to stay for the next couple of nights. The hotel
was quite beautiful, somewhat unexpectedly appearing out of
nowhere, in the middle of this dirt track. It is built primarily
of red brick, and is somehow reminiscent of the older luxury
hotels in India. This feeling of familiarity was heightened
by the climate and bio-diversity of the area, which was misty
and rich in climbing vegetation (which threatened to take over
the road at times), very much like the Indian hill stations.
The views from the hotel were spectacular, and as I sat reading
on the balcony the next morning, I counted more than a dozen
varieties of brightly patterned butterflies - in shades of black,
orange, white, red and yellow. It was also pleasantly cool here,
in striking contrast to the relative heat and strong sunshine
of the plains. In the evening, the hotel dining room had a cosy
log fire, and we were all happy to sit adjacent to it!
Ku
Chawe had its fair share of characters. The vendors outside
the hotel had to be persuaded with some difficulty that I really
did not want to buy potatoes or the wooden carved Noah's Ark
with all the requisite pairs of animals, when in fact, I was
trying simply to buy some raspberries instead. On a walking
trail in the mountains, my friends met a jubilant Rastafarian
(complete with dreadlocks and a small ad hoc shelter), who informed
them that he had been there for the last few days, fasting and
praying to God and the Emperor (I should mention that he had
been meditating in the area of the mountains known as the Emperor's
Peak, which is named after the last Ethiopian Emperor, Heile
Selassie, considered holy by many Rastafarians).
But the
most interesting character we came across had to be the female
monkey prowling around the hotel gardens. The monkeys in the
hotel gardens are mostly well-behaved, since they receive scraps
from the backdoor of the kitchen on a regular basis. This one
though, was pregnant, and it was clearly playing havoc with
her hormones, because she had no hesitation in grabbing a series
of food items off plates (rolls, fruit etc). Even after we moved
out of her reach, she swung down to another table, lifted the
lid of the sugar jar, and used the spoon to eat some sugar.
The waiter informed us in a resigned fashion that she was in
the habit of taking the sugar jar with her sometimes, emptying
it and just dropping it from the tree when she was finished…
Needless to say, I avoided the balcony sugar jars after that
you literally didn't know where they'd been!
The next
day we drove down to Cape Maclear, and the shores of Lake Malawi.
The start of this leg of the trip was less than auspicious.
After a longer than expected drive, we staggered down a long
and bumpy dirt track to Chembe Lodge, with its large canvas
tents scattered along the lakeshore. We had already unloaded
our luggage before realising that we were in the wrong place,
and then went in search of our booked accommodation at another
lakeside camp, which consisted of a long low building with individual
rooms. My relief (at accessing indoor accommodation) was short-lived,
as it turned out that there had been a mix-up, resulting in
our rooms already being rented out to someone else. The alternative
accommodation provided nearby was less than satisfactory, so
we ended up after almost an hour, back at Chembe Lodge!
As it turned
out, we were lucky because by the end of the day, all the tents
at Chembe Lodge had been taken…I appreciated our good
fortune even more, when we walked around the village that evening.
This was clearly a one-horse village! There was a "restaurant"
called Nando's (named after the famous restaurant chain serving
chicken), but it consisted of a single dark room, where you
might not want to risk eating anything, given that you could
barely see what you were eating. "Harrods" next door,
was a single room store selling matches and other fairly basic
sundries. But my favourite was the single room "Ritz",
advertising itself as a "super deluxe minshop (sic), bar
and pizza" (which just about covers all bases!)
The lodge
area was quite striking, with Lake Malawi lapping at the front
door of some of the tents, and a fantastic view of the nearby
islands and the fisher-boats making their way along the lake.
The tents were spacious and clean, but I have to admit that
as an urban Bangali, living in a tent in a continent known for
its exotic fauna (especially reptiles and insects!) was not
altogether an attractive proposition for me. Nor did the bats
that came out immediately after twilight contribute much to
my peace of mind. While it is commonly said that bats possess
an internal radar which makes it impossible for them to bump
into people, I had of course seen the one programme on the National
Geographic channel which asserts otherwise (i.e. that while
bats do have some kind of navigating system, it is by no means
foolproof…). The brief period during sunset was beautiful
though, as were the fireflies that came dancing through the
darkness immediately thereafter. The lizard population was large
and varied, ranging from huge iguanas, to small bouncy golden
house lizards, to beige and brown-patterned medium sized lizards.
Alas, I came across none of the tiny, emerald green grass lizards
I had been so charmed by in Uganda ten years ago.
When the
sun rose in its orange and golden splendour the next morning,
with a glorious view of the lake and the soft lakeside breeze
blowing, I reconsidered my dark thoughts of the previous evening.
In the daylight, it all seemed rather silly, especially since
I had successfully avoided any close encounters with bats. We
decided to hire a boat to go out to the islands, and to our
amazement, ended up with a beautiful catamaran. The vehicle
was not only spacious, it was quite striking in its construction,
since it is a twin hulled vehicle, with large areas in front
(a tarpaulin stretched between the two wings, with the water
clearly visible a few feet below), and a deck area at the back,
suitable for lazing around on. As it was a sailboat, there was
no engine noise, and it was a truly relaxing experience to cruise
around the lake on this marvellous boat. Our experienced crew
consisted of Harrison ("Like Harrison Ford, you know")
and Henderman. They were both very pleasant, and we also benefited
from Henderman's side business of selling bracelets made out
of leather and decorative leather wire (at the knockdown price
of about sixty takas each).
After a
short time, we reached the shore of one of the islands, where
we were provided with swim gear, including snorkels and masks,
so that we could see the brightly coloured tropical fish at
play. My favourites were the bright blue fish, which moved in
large shoals around the area, but there appeared to be many
other varieties around as well. Around lunchtime, we were taken
to another beach, where we had a picnic lunch. This was briefly
marred by a rather obnoxious individual, who was part of a group
already there. Since his companions appeared at least as embarrassed
by his behaviour as we were, we were able to largely ignore
him, and moved off again shortly thereafter. And to his accusation
that when you come to Malawi, you must talk to Malawians, we
were happy to agree, pointing out that we DID talk to Malawians,
including our boat crew, but that it didn't mean we had to talk
to HIM! There is a saying that a picnic is not a picnic without
ants, and I guess this guy fulfilled that role for us that day…
The final
part of the day was spent on the catamaran, cruising around
with occasional dives off the boat for the adventurous members
of our party (not myself, needless to say!) in the middle of
the lake. This followed another beautiful sunset at the lodge,
and a quiet evening. I should add that it was only the evening
that was quiet, since the night ended up being rather more eventful
than I expected. Some of our fellow guests were prowling around
at all hours (no doubt seeking the toilets in the dark), but
the most unexpected source of noise came from a nearby village.
It was Easter weekend, and the village people were celebrating
in high spirits. They sang with evangelical gusto throughout
the night! We later found out that there had been pagan tribals
drinking and dancing, as well as Muslims, who participated more
soberly in the Easter festival with their Christian neighbours.
I was reminded of how in Lilongwe, my European friends had been
asked, quite casually, if they were Muslim. With a large number
of both Muslims and Christians living in the country, most Malawians
seemed to think it quite possible for anyone (white, black or
brown) to belong to either community, and did not appear to
go much by stereotypes. With inclusiveness of the Easter weekend
celebrations, once again Malawi left me with a sense of envy
in terms of how well its diverse communities managed to get
along with each other…
(To
be continued)
Copyright
(R) thedailystar.net 2004
|