Flavours of the season

Cold cuts, beef jerky or 'mejbani ranna'; spoiled for choice, aren't we? Every Qurbani Eid ushers in a time when the Bengali staple -- fish -- is replaced by an alternative source of protein: red meat. Eid-ul-Adha is a unique celebration of human bonding, of sacrifice, of self-realisation and of sharing. A pious act that ensures every household has at least one chance of feasting on the meat from the sacrificial animal.

For us who are more fortunate than others, eating meat sometimes takes precedence over the spirituality of the occasion. Or so we think! Qurbani is unique in the sense that the religion simultaneously provides a valuable lesson on sacrifice while providing a chance to rejoice through a very human activity -- feasting!

The actual day of Eid begins with the early morning prayers. As the butchers arrive, specific instructions are given – don't spoil the skin, make sure the pieces are moderate in size, and if you were thinking the offals would go wasted handed over to, think again! We are sensitive when it comes to offals.

As a matter of fact, on Eid day, it has been a family tradition to have the first meal of the day with greasy, ox liver and gooey 'khichuri' and clarified butter! Truly a godsend.

As the day progresses, the beefy parts of the animal reach the kitchen and an elaborate dish is prepared in a large 'patil' -- a pot that is used only on the occasion of Eid-ul-Adha. Our house chef prepares a gastronomic delight in the form of a watery, beef preparation by dinner time.

And of course the feasting continues as the days roll on. Somewhat akin to the television programmes that are aired, Eid extends for weeks on, months even. That watery dish gradually loses its liquid content and the meat fibres get loose. What it then turns into are juicy, non-gravy remains of the meat fibres that have been simmered on low heat for a week or more. The taste is quite distinct and unmatched.

While the meat is being simmered, another large pot is mounted on the flame. Along with the 'jhura mangsho', the intestines are simmered and if one can get past the odd odour, it makes a delectable dish. Somehow akin to the 'jhura mangsho' the preparation of the intestines give of the juices as they are cooked and heated, over and over again. As the fleshy parts get drier, they give off the flavours and that is what makes them a delicacy.
It would be a crime not to mention the head of the animal, which yields culinary delights such as the brain (excellent when fried), the meaty portions of the head and of course, the tongue (which is a bliss as a cold cut; great for sandwiches).  

Even after distributing a significant portion of the meat, some is stored in the fridge for future consumption. Although electricity is now accessible even in the farthest corners of the country, many rural households still prepare beef jerky as a means for preservation. Sun dried to prevent fungal or bacterial growth, beef jerky is an acquired taste that is not found in other times of the year.
So! Cold cuts or beef jerky? Spoiled for choice, aren't we?

Photo:  LS Archive/Sazzad Ibne Sayed