From the mountains of Shaanxi
Photos: The writer
During a recent trip to Xi'an (in Shaanxi province) on invitation from China Daily, the country's leading English newspaper – I came across something I never before associated with China -- Giant mountains.
The anticipation to the mountains was built up right at the official beginning of the trip, at the reception banquet. A snow-capped mountain (constructed of cream made with egg whites) sat on the dinner table, with small fried scorpions placed all over it. As exciting as munching on the scorpions was, it set the tone for the trip in a way.
The first mountain we visited was Mount Taibai, its highest peak, the Baxian tower rising to 12,300ft to claim bragging rights as the tallest mountain in Eastern China. But it's not just for numbers that Mount Taibai stands out. The four seasons of China (Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter) can all be experienced on the ascent to the mountain, as the climate changes with its elevation. At the base it did felt pleasant and windy. It was a little hard to imagine that in about an hour we would need bulky winter coats, which none of us carried and had to rent from a small shop before beginning our ascent. A minibus took us to our first stop through a winding but smooth road, to a small stream coming from a waterfall. A giant carving of a Buddhist deity (possibly the bodhisattva Manjushri) stood on a wall of the mountain, overlooking the stream, and the climate started to feel a little more warm and humid.
A little further down the road, and surprise, surprise! Fallen leaves were on the ground aplenty, the sunlight dimmer, and the weather significantly cooler. It is at that part of the mountain that there are a few small Buddhist temples, with tree branches and bridges adorned in ritualistic red laces.
The colossal size of the mountain began to emerge as we boarded the cable cars that would take us to a peak at about 11,800ft. Even through the glass walls the cold began to seep in, as we approached sub-zero temperatures, looking below to snaking frozen streams between fir trees. Although it was sunny at the peak and we didn't get to play with any snow, the view to the distance was simultaneously calming and breathtaking.
The next day we started off on another long bus journey to Mount Hua. One of China's five great mountains, it is, on one hand of great religious significance, and on the other, one of the most perilous mountains of China, with its steep, bare cliffs. The landscape is strikingly different from the Mount Taibai, with almost-vertical walls mostly bare of greenery. The steepness of the mountain, despite being not the tallest at about 7000ft at its highest peak, makes it a more thrilling climb even on the cable car. The final climb from the cable car to the peak is through narrow, upright stairs, with the handrails covered in locks placed by lovers as a sign of undying commitment. The peak is more bustling with tourists, and unlike the serenity of Taibai, a sense of wonder and adventure fills the air.
Many people hike up the mountain, and there are even accommodations available for staying a night, but unfortunately we did not have that luxury.
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