From the family cook book
Some of the best cooks we have come across never had a recipe book. It is a legacy handed over by generations, each contributing to the distinct flavour and taste that we find in our kitchens. The measurements are just estimates, a handful of a condiment or a pinch of a spice – that is how it has been.
Traditionally, women of the household reign in the kitchen, and most like to preserve the tried and tested recipes to fall back on. These handwritten notebooks, with diligent notations of recipes, with improvements over time, are like treasure troves for me. Although the recipes do not make up for the hands, we can try to reminisce through them.
The following recipes are like that, dug up from a browned, lined, torn, yet cherished notebook written by my mother.
BRAIN CUTLET
Ingredients
1 whole (cow) brain
2 eggs
½ cup bread crumbs
2 tsp black pepper
2 tbsp flour
½ tsp cumin powder
½ tsp chilli powder
½ tsp garam masala powder
1 tsp ginger paste
1 tsp garlic paste
250g potato
125g ghee
Salt to taste
Method
Clean, wash and soak the brain in four to five cups of hot water for half an hour, till it hardens. Cut the brain into thin slices, and spread those on a flat plate. Beat eggs in a bowl, add salt, black pepper, red chilli powder, cumin powder, garam masala, ginger, garlic paste and flour. Mix all together with 3 tsp of water. Roll the brain pieces in this mixture, coat with bread crumbs, and shallow fry in ghee over low heat. Serve cutlets with French fries and chilli sauce.
BEEF ROLL
Ingredients
250 gm minced beef
2 slices bread
2 boiled potatoes
2 onions, chopped
2 tbsp ginger paste
2 tbsp garlic paste
½ tsp black pepper
1 tsp chilli powder
1 tsp cumin powder
½ tsp garam masala
4 tbsp ghee
3 tbsp tomato ketchup
2 eggs, boiled
For plating –boiled vegetables or french fries
Method
Put the minced beef in a pan, add salt and bring to a boil without putting additional water. Allow to simmer on low heat till almost and the beef becomes dry.
Remove from heat and allow to cool, then grind the minced meat, preferably by hand on a 'sil bata'. Then add to it black pepper, chilli powder, cumin powder, and garam masala, and mix well.
Heat 1 tbsp of ghee in a pan and add chopped onion, ginger and garlic paste, tomato ketchup, and sauté the mixture. Then add the minced beef, and cook for a few minutes.
Remove the beef from heat and add boiled potato, bread (soak bread with water and squeeze to remove excess water) with the beef and mix well.
Roll the beef into a pancake shape and put the boiled eggs in the centre. Wrap the minced beef tightly around the egg.
Heat 3 tbsp of ghee in a frying pan and shallow fry the beef roll. Turn all the sides of roll gently with spatula for even cooking.
Let the roll cool after it is fully fried, and slice in into two with a sharp knife. Garnish with boiled vegetables and French fries. The beef roll is ready to serve.
BEEF VINDALOO
Ingredients
1kg beef
4 onions, ground to a paste
2 one-inch pieces of ginger, ground to a paste
10-15 cloves of garlic
1 cup mustard
½ tsp turmeric powder
2 tsp red chilli powder
1 tsp (level) fenugreek seeds
¼ tsp black cumin seeds
(Join fenugreek and black cumin and grind to a paste)
½ cup white vinegar
Salt to taste
Method
Mix all the ingredients together well, cover the pan, and cook on low heat until almost done. Garnish with chopped coriander leaves. Serve vindaloo hot with nan or white pulao.
RUI MACHER (FISH) KHAGINA
Ingredients
250gm Rui fish
2 eggs
2 tbsp onion paste
½ tsp cumin powder
2 tsp red chilli powder
1tsp turmeric powder
1tsp coriander powder
½ cup oil
Salt to taste
Method
Wash and clean the fish, remove scales with a sharp knife, and debone it.
Beat eggs with cumin powder and salt. Then pour mashed fish into the egg mixture. Mix well.
Turn the fish mixture into greased bowl, cover and steam in hot boiling water for 30 minutes like a pudding. Remove from the steamer, let it cool, and slice into small cubes.
Heat the oil in a pan, add all the spices and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes. Add warm water. When water starts to bubble, pour all the fish cubes and cook on low heat for 10 to 12 minutes. Sprinkle cumin powder on top and take it off the heat. You can also add coconut milk to add texture to the gravy. (optional) Rui Macher Khagina is ready to serve.
HILSHA FISH KEBAB
Ingredients
1 hilsha, the full upper half
4 onions
3tbsps tomato ketchup or, 3tbsp vinegar+ 1 tsp sugar
2tbsp ghee
Salt to taste
Method
Slice the fish into thin strips, and deep fry in ghee. Heat 2 tbsp of ghee in a pan and chopped onions, stir, add tomato ketchup and fish pieces, and keep stirring for 2 to 3 minutes. Dish out the hot fish pieces and garnish with boiled
vegetables.
Photo: Sazzad Ibne Sayed
Food prepared by Syeda Nafisa Ahmad
Food styling: RBR
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