Hot wax; haute couture
The end of the millennium brought style and fashion to every Bangladeshi doorstep. Budding designers experimented with tie n' dye, hand block prints infused with embroidery and other value additions, and local fashion took feeble steps to a full grown industry that we now see.
Inspired by their initial collective success, the rookies (at least back then) focused on batik - an attempt at identifying with roots rather than creating a fashion novelty.
One must bear in mind that batik is occasionally referred to as tie n' dye, and the confusion is understandable. Both use a resist, a way to keep the dye from penetrating the textile in certain areas. However, in batik, rather than 'tying' up the fabric, wax is used to execute beautiful patterns. And the eventual result looks strikingly different from one that is tied and subsequently dyed with hues.
Batik has always been part of our culture; Comilla in particular is famed for producing the finest quality batik in the country. Flip to Centrefold to find out how fashion gurus identify themselves with batik and romance with its many forms.
"I did batik at first, and then after doing that I learned more and more and then I changed over to painting for good...Then it was canvas." That was Emily Kame Kngwarreye, the great Australian aboriginal painter, explaining her artistic journey. |
The charm of batik possibly lies in its very creation. The process - incredibly laborious, but the output refreshingly versatile. Depending on the skill of artisans, layers of intricacies can be incorporated on the designs, and the diverse range of batik products now available in the global market reflect a strong sense of cultural identity of source nations.
For eons the 'tricks' of production have remained pretty much the same, but batiks produced in Indonesia vary considerably from the ones produced even in Malaysia, their next door neighbour. Needless to say, in Bangladesh, where the demand for the fabric is significantly lower and the techniques less refined, patterns still reflect a strong local lineage, which sets it apart from their 'surrogate siblings' in the Far East.
The evident care-free feel of batik resonates with the sun, the sea and the sand; but if you believe such a dress is suited only for an evening by the sea or a beach party, think again!
For those who prefer to remain blithe in their dressings, batik and tie n' dye products are godsend; worn with some sensibility, they can easily project a suave attitude ideal for almost all urban social settings.
Everyday cotton saris gracing batik are simply 'perfection' - for that soiree, art show or premier of a theatrical performance. Men and women alike, now crave for a signature statement at such events that are becoming popular with the passing of every single day. In a relentless strife to stand apart in a crowd, women can now explore the variant forms of batik in whatever they chose to wear.
Old school designs with cracked juxtaposed lines spread like wild vines across the entire fabric, make a recognisable link to abstract expressionism, although batik traditions are far too old to have derived any inspiration from the genre. This electric use of lines, reminiscent of artworks by Jackson Pollock, on entire stretch of saris is possibly the most recognisable feature of local batik traditions.
But as far as other components of the stitch-less garb are concerned, the scope has been widely explored and the diversity made clearer. More often than not, the borders, or 'paar' as we know it, are embellished with earth toned, indigo or other hues, and the decorations extrapolated on the 'anchaal', where designers have a wider 'canvas' to work on. With renewed interest in vegetable dyes and organic colours, the batik sari has the prospect of reaching newer heights and can even be transformed into objet d'art.
Even in this age of globalisation where vibes from Milan reaches Dhaka within minutes, the latest in the runways of Mumbai are just a click away on Pinterest boards, blogs, vlogs and on-line fashion magazines, glitz has often been overruled by local fashionistas and that modernist dictum of 'less being more' is not about to change anytime soon. Batik, in all its glory, can and does add to that effortless Bengali look.
Teamed with a puffed-sleeve (or sleeveless, for that matter) monochrome blouse, and a well-crafted cotton batik sari, nonchalance comes naturally. Accessorised with some chunky silver or metal jewellery; or simply some terracotta pieces, the whole look can be radically transformed, yet keeping in terms of the underlining subtlety.
The rules of the game however can be bent, broken and even shattered, as fashion renegades often do. Silk saris in their myriad riot of monochrome colours, often featuring elaborate and outsized floral, concentric circles or other geometric patterns make an ideal choice for evening events – an anniversary, maybe a bridal shower or even infrequent reunions of long-lost friends. The choice of fabric is definitely the key, but the nuances should also be kept in mind before brining something out of the closet.
For the younger crowd, the possibility of toying with batik seems even greater. Summer comfort can go hand in hand with summer fashion as neutral coloured attires with patches of dyed colours make ideal casual wears. For decades, young women have donned all-white shalwar kameezs and simply wrap an 'orna' dyed in the most eccentric of colours. Batik works equally well to defuse such deliberate monotony!
A popular addition to the local scene, the 'sarong-like skirt' with some quirky, bold batik designs can be off-set with a simple white top or a 'fatua.' With some ethnic glass bangles to set the right mood, and maybe a tinted bumble-bee sunglass, the look is proven.
A simple reversal can be equally appealing – a neutral skirt, or Capri worn with a top in a wild display of colour and motifs. Jeans – ubiquitous and works well with tunics; so just by switching to different accessories one is set to pull-off a different look every single time.
Fashion historians argue as to the root of batik traditions, but unanimously agree that the technique achieved near perfection in Java, Indonesia and to a lesser extent, Malaysia. Due to the predominant Muslim population in both these countries, batik has seen wide spread use on different forms of religious dressing. This trend is now being 'borrowed' by women across the globe and Bangladesh is no different.
The lure of batik (and not to forget the tie n' dyed products) is as pronounced in men's fashion as it is in women's. Flipping through the coloured images in a family photo album, one can easily notice an uncle, or a father in his younger days wearing a batik panjabi or fatua – the decisive fashion statement of the psychedelic years!
Men flaunted their batik attires well into the seventies, and in West Bengal the traditional batik kurta-pyjama is still a staple. For men who are eager to break so-called norms of fashion and tread their own path, batik wear is very much on.
Despite the effort by some designers to give batik its much deserved revival, mainstream fashion is yet to catch up. Local fashion powerhouses appear cynical about its widespread acceptance and commercial viability, whereas the truth remains that the trend is already here.
Comilla - once the production hub of this timeless fabric is now facing a dearth in business. In an effort to make ends meet, the quality of the fabric, the intricacies of the designs and introduction of new ideas are all being compromised. Some have opted for machine designs in an effort to move to mass production departing from the traditional hand crafted techniques.
Although batik is now a billion-dollar industry, Bangladesh is yet to reap any significant gain from the fashion craze. In reality, the mark that batik once etched on our identity is now too faint to notice.
Ideas transcend boundaries; limits of geographical slowly disappearing. While some struggle to find their identity in the confluence of traditions, others discover them through experiments, a zealous game of trial and error before they find their 'true calling'.
May I suggest batik? And why not?
By Pothbhola
Photo: Sazzad Ibne Sayed
Model: Mashiat and Meghla
Wardrobe: Chondona Dewan for Star Lifestyle
Make-up: Farzana Shakil's Makeover Salon
Location: Pan Pacific Sonargaon
Comments